June 20, 2016 at 15:26 #29296
Do the above, and if that doesn’t work, before I bother going to the dealer again, I would – let down all the tyres, and reset the tyre pressures. (You do know that ‘learning tyre pressures is a bit of a bad translation, and should really be something like ‘monitoring tyre pressures’?). After doing this, pump them up to the correct pressures, and set the system. If it gives a false alarm after this, THEN goto the dealer…June 22, 2016 at 16:54 #29315
Drive for a mile or two to allow reset then, if you still have a false alarm THEN goto the dealer.June 25, 2016 at 21:10 #29322
Don’t leave it too long to go back to the dealer if it still doesn’t work. I had to have a tyre pressure monitor replaced through a puncture. It coat £133 plus fitting.
NeilJuly 25, 2016 at 21:45 #29474
When I bought Zoe I discovered that my dealer had put a free umbrella in the boot. Right at the front (or back, depending on how you look at it) of the boot, up against the back of the rear seats, there is a narrow ledge. My dealer put the umbrella on this ledge. I thought it was a nice little freebie, but I actually found it to be a Godsend this summer, since I live in Northern Ireland and we usually get quite a lot of rain
from May to Septemberthroughout the year! The fact that the umbrella fits snugly on this little ledge means that it never rolls about, nor does it take up valuable boot space. So buy yourself a cheap golf umbrella, pop it on the little ledge, and then next time you get unexpectedly caught in a rain shower, you need not panic!July 25, 2016 at 21:53 #29475
@zoetree thank you for your Skubb suggestion! My Zoe’s boot was very untidy and I was always trying to tidy it up. Went to IKEA last week and got myself a couple of Skubb boxes (the big ones with the Zip) just like you suggested. They fit nicely, with just a little gap at one side for me to put my kit with the warning triangle, tow ropes etc. Everything all zipped away nicely and now it looks nice and neat! So thanks a lot!October 12, 2016 at 14:02 #29822
I am from Norway and have owned Zoe for 13 months. Thank you for you guys sharing very useful tips… I regularly check this forum and have learnt alot from you guys.
I would like to share with you my experience when driving Zoe in the highway with speed 90km/h-120km/h.
My office is very far from my house approx. 95km and I drive back-forward almost everyday. 90% of distances I drive in the highway with speed between 90-120km/h. I dont want stop and charge in the middle ways coz it wastes my time for waiting as well as during winter time it is extremely cold weather (sometimes -20oC) and double charging time.
At first few month, I used to monitor the distance ‘km’ remained in the dashboard. For me now, it is useless and it is un-predictable and it is sometimes make me feel nervous coz I dont know if I can reach to my destinations or not or I have to stop and charge it…
You all know the distance/range is effected by the weather/temperature… for ex. if it is windy, extremely cold… the range can be shorter…
After that, I recognize that I should monitor the batteries’ cells / Level as well as the ‘Direct Consumption’ on the dashboard. I feel more confident and almost have full control of my car to estimate that I can reach to the destination or not…
How??? Now I explain:
Zoe has the battery capacity 22kW, and it displays 8 cells in the dashboard (on the left side).
– So 1 cell = 22kW / 8 cells = 2.75kW
When I drive in the highways in Norway with speed between 90kmh – 120kmh, normal it shows in ‘Direction Consumption’ between 15kWh-18kWh. If the weather is warm, normally i use 15kmh to maintain the speed avg around 106kmh. It the weather is cold or extremely cold (-20oC), i use 18kWh and speed avg 92kmh
Let say when we drive in the highway with 15kWh or with 18kWh (it shows in ‘Direct comsumption’)
– 22kW / 15kWh = 1.46h = 01h32m
– 22kW / 18kWh = 1.22h = 01h18m
– at speed 15kWh, one cell 2.75kW / 15kWh * 60 = 11 minutes
– at speed 18kWh, one cell 2.75kw / 18kWh * 60 = 9 minutes
When we know the destination address, for ex. 100km and driving time approx. 1h10 (Navigation) , and you constantly use direct consumption ’15kWh’ or ’18kWh’, you have enough battery to reach to the destination. Remember when I drive in the highways, I rarely use ‘Cruise Control’ coz it is out of my control :). I press the ‘speed pedal’ and keep ‘Direction Consumption’ around 15kWh/18kWh. When I drive uphill, the speed is dropping and downhill it can reach to ~120kmh.
You may ask me how to know how long i can drive my car with the remaining battery… well here is my answer.
For ex. the car shows its battery remains:
– 8 cells (100%):
+ 15kWh driving time 1h32m
+ 18kWh driving time 1h18m
– n cells
+ 15kWh driving time (n*11 minutes)
+ 18kWh driving time (n*9 minutes)
So if it shows the battery remaining 4 cells, meaning i can drive upto 44 minutes at 15kwh and 36 minutes at 18kWh. Then i will check on the navigation how far and how long i have to drive in the highways to see if i have enough battery to reach the destination or i should stop and charge it…
Of course, the battery capacity reducing and cant handle 2.75kW/cell for life-time. I regular I have check and estimate the cell capacity as well.
With this driving style, I feel I have full control of my car and 99% I dont need to stop and charge it in the mid-ways with the distance 95km 🙂
I hope it will help some of you who have to drive for a long distance often.
/MatOctober 12, 2016 at 16:06 #29823
Hi all , does anyone know where i can find my rlink serial number please?
Im trying to register with rlink store , want to update my satnav , thank you
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