I’ve seen lots of folk say creep is disabled because they can’t see any kw being used. However it’s definitely not instant. My handbrake will need a tighten at next service but if you don’t pull it all the way on, sat just one click, it’s enough to register the handbrake is applied (handbrake light on dash) but the car pulls itself along, just.

It does stop pulling eventually, at which point the car will start rolling back if once slope. Nearly rolled into a police car a couple of weeks back before I noticed the handbrake needed a tweak. They actually reversed back smiling, probably thought “check the noob in the EV”.

Another top tip, if you do a short commute, drive and enjoy and don’t worry about range. My car says 51mikes remaining on 79-ish battery. Driven quick and still getting 3mpkwh, been really enjoying the car too.

Top tip, learn to drive gentle to maximise range, but only use when your covering a big distance. Don’t ruin your enjoyment of this great wee checkable car.

@mike It’s always 5 mins from the fob/app/website, regardless of whether it’s plugged in. It’s only when set from the timer inside the car that it’s up to an hour.

I don’t know whether the 5min blasts use power from the charger if connected though; or the battery. Not sure if it’d use enough for this to be measurable!

I live in Switzerland, which is fairly hilly as well, and have had a Zoe for about month now. I find that the hills make much less of a dent on range than the speed. Driving at 60 km/h, on the flat, the car seems to be using about 6 kw, and going up and down doesn’t change that much, whereas at 100 km/h the consumption averages over 15 kw, and at 120 km/h it is over 20. Last week I went 200 km on a single charge, and there were a lot of hills, but only about 10 km of that was on the highway driving over 100 km/h, and most of it was at speeds of about 60 km/h. One interesting trip I had a couple weeks ago was a 15 km drive, where the net elevation drop was 160 meters through a series of rolling hills. The battery was at exactly the same level at the end of the trip as at the beginning, just as if I had been coasting down a hill with a grade of about 1%. Put that drive into reverse: going uphill at an average grade of 1% uses twice as much electricity as level driving.

So my answer: given Norwegian driving speeds (which are slow), I don’t see 138 km as a problem on one charge for the old Zoe, and certainly not for the new. Unless where you live is several hundred meters higher than Oslo, in which case it might be hard to get home.

At 30mph to 50mph 65 miles range is not a problem.

And you say Milton Keynes for work? Loads of chargers there I believe

Samsam, can’t quite see how 1200 miles = £10 even on Economy 7… even 4mpkwh is about 1.5p a mile on Economy 7. Still cheap at £18 to £20 a month. I think the higher costs of ownership are if PCP and battery rental deals go into excess mileage…

Silly question, but – would Economy 7 work out better for any of you?

I think it normally works out that you need to use more than half of your electric during the cheap period for this to be cheaper. With BG we paid 12p per kWh, and on e7, it was 8p for the night usage and 16p for the day usage… since it goes 4p in both directions, that’d make it 50%. May vary with other suppliers/tariffs.

For us with two EVs, I thought we’d easily do that; but our estimates are £30/mo elec for the cars, and we normally use £35-40/month (before we had the cars). I suspect before our kids came along (when wife also worked), it would’ve been cheaper; but now the house is occupied all day, it’s not so. It’s definitely worth doing the maths though!

(though you will need to be sure of the reliability of the charge timer!)

I think my electricity at home comes out to 1.7p per kWh

That’s very cheap compared to here (around 12p). Are you sure it’s correct? If so, it makes even more sense to go electric than it does here! (Here, it’s about 13p/mile petrol if doing 40mpg, and about 3p/mile elec… if you’re paying 1.7 kWh, it’s a fraction of a penny per mile in electric!). I presume you’re converting into GBP in your figures (1.7p is approx 0.2 Krone?)

The question remains what sort of depreciation the car will suffer to be able to see if it would be cheaper than my current car which has zero depreciation (because it’s worthless…)

It’s very hard to say, because Gov’t grants, availability (and price) or incresed-range EVs etc. are all a bit uncertain. RCI are estimating my 15 plate Intens (list price, £20.5k with met paint, though we’re effectively paying £11k) to be worth around £6k in 3 years with 27k miles on the clock. I suspect it’ll be lower if the price of 200mile ZOEs/Leafs/etc. are decent; but it’s possible they expect to replace the battery in it for a bigger one, and pump it’s value back up.

Most people here are getting theirs on PCP, so at the end of the term, they can just hand the car back, and if it’s worth than the GFV given by RCI, it’s RCI that foot the bill for the extra depreciation. If it works out better, and the car is worth more, then you can part-ex normally, and keep that extra value for yourself.

I don’t know how these things may differ in Norway; but having seen all the incentives over there; it looks pretty attractive to me! Free parking, free ferries, use of bus lanes, no VAT…!

Just to add I have just ordered our insurance. Went with Renault using their website. Simply added the battery cost to the calue of the car (as stated on other sites), and the premium was a little under £300. Quite pleased! 🙂

Just to add I have just ordered our insurance. Went with Renault using their website. Simply added the battery cost to the calue of the car (as stated on other sites), and the premium was a little under £300. Quite pleased! 🙂

And there is a chance I can get one installed at work to top up the battery.

For 65 miles you shouldn’t arrive with a completely empty battery, and won’t need a completely full one on the way back, so you probably have time at work to charge on a simple 13A socket if you have a granny cable.

Again if your getting a great trade in on the Mii then I’m sure it’s worth it.

It’s down to personal preference. The Zoe is great but remember you have to be fairly sure how much your going to use the Zoe as you commit to a 2-3 battery rental at a time.

You won’t be buying a Zoe to save lots of money. But saving a bit every month is better than nothing. I’m saving about £60-70 a month overall. But then I had to spend £8500 to make a saving. So really no saving, it’s but having a 12 year newer car.

I’d like to think when gen2 Zoe is released that batter will be included as more people will but to own. Then Renault might reduce older Zoe rental to next to nothing or get rid of completely. After 5 years you’ve basically paid most of the cost of the battery anyway. Course I could be totally wrong.