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  • #15975

    Molehill_Mike
    Participant

    As above, if you run a 7kWh charger for an hour, you’ll have used 7 kWh. I am charged 11p per kWh.

    11p x 7 = 77p to run my 7 kWh charger, for an hour.

    Car battery is 22 kWh, but someone above states due to efficiency around 32 kWh are needed.

    32 divided by 7 will give the number of hours I need to run the charger for to fully charge.

    Times that number of hours by my earlier 77p per hour figure, and voila.

    It really depends on what your energy supplier is charging you per kWh, this is the crucial figure.

    #15964

    Dexter1979
    Participant

    32 kWh required to charge 22 kWh battery

    Just checked my own charge last night and it seems the efficiency is a lot lower at 3kW.. Must do the sums but I think I am looking at about a 60% efficiency at that level..

    #15957

    Molehill_Mike
    Participant

    @jit187

    Mike – if your tariff has ECO7 the cost for elec is even less. my ECO7 tariff I pay £0.05 per KW. so my total cost to charge my car overnight is £1.10 (22 kw X £0.05)

    so if anyone does want to charge at mine please come between the hours of 0100 am to 0700 am…. 🙂

    I woudl change to this, but the Wife works from home 3 days a week, so my day rate would be higher, and therefore I doubt any saving would be had… might even cost more. As I say it’ll go on charge every night, but realistically I am only going to need 1 and a bit “full” charges a week.

    @Valeri

    Actually the total cost is more than 22 kWh*x£. That is because efficiency of charging is not anywhere near 100%. It might be 70% at low rates. Considering that the amount of taken KW would be around 22/0.7=31.4 kW for a total charge

    Interesting… that equates to (lets say 32 kWh):

    32 kWh required to charge 22 kWh battery, 7 kWh chargepoint, and 11p/kWh elec tariff.

    32/7 = 4.5
    7*0.11 = 0.77
    0.77*4.5 = £3.47

    Call it £3.50 to fully charge. Not bad, considering I’ll only be doing around 100 miles a week. Based on 100 mile per charge (here is wishing…) thats 3.5p a mile.

    #15952

    Molehill_Mike
    Participant

    Interestingly I’ve just done some sums. 22 kWh battery, 7 kWh chargepoint, and 11p/kWh elec tariff.

    £2.40 to fully charge, +/- 10% for loss temperature changes etc. Nto bad, considering I’ll only be doing around 100 miles a week. Based on 100 mile per charge (here is wishing…) thats 2.4p a mile.

    Compared to the Mustang at 80/215 which is 37p a mile (on fuel alone!).

    Quite chuffed

    #15941

    Trevor Larkum
    Keymaster

    I wonder if they might have to SORN it to stop paying the battery rental.


    Trevor Larkum
    Keymaster

    As buchanan says, it’s officially 22kWh and, as I’ve mentioned in another thread, when I’ve run the battery right down it has said it used 22kWh.

    #15931

    David
    Participant

    I’m collecting an ex-demo this Friday – glad I’ve checked this list… Point 3 (tax disc) made me check the tax status on the DVLA website, and discovered my car is declared off-road and has SORN status.

    Therefore, additional checkpoint for anyone buying an ex-demo…
    11) Check the DVLA website that it’s not declared SORN (otherwise would be illegal to drive away)

    Also, given mine has been sat on a forecourt for a good while, I’m asking them to check for software updates, battery condition and make sure it’s roadworthy (tire pressures, brakes etc.) Probably not a checklist item for most people buying brand new, but an additional thought in my case.

    Also, presumably you get two ‘keyless’ keys? If so, checkpoint to make sure I get both of them.

    I’m a bit bemused why they would SORN it when it’s free to tax it! They’ve just created admin for themselves, I think.

    Finally, another checkpoint item (for myself), bring driving licence (my dealer specifically asked I bring this), and make sure I have the debit card for the account where all the money is too!

    #15922

    In reply to: That last 1%


    mgjackson
    Participant

    The battery initially charges at constant voltage constant current, but when the battery reaches a certain voltage, the charging regime changes to constant voltage, variable current; the current gradually dropping off until the battery reaches maximum voltage.

    Which is why as it gets closer and closer to 100%, the charging gets longer and longer.

    You can see this clearly if you have one of those new electric meters at home that has a graphical display – it will stay at 7KW for a couple of hours then there will be a fairly linear drop off.

    The battery is made up of lots of 3volt cells, and the voltage range is 4.2(Full) to 3.7 (Empty). If the voltage drops below 3.7 volts, then that will damage the cell.

    As the battery ages, the cells will start to discharge at different rates, doing a full charge cycle re-balances all the cells back to the same voltage.

    What this means is constantly using hi-speed chargers and stopping at 80-90% doesn’t do the battery a lot of good as eventually the cells will get very much out of balance and some will start to drop below that 3.7 volt threshold.

    This I think can be proven – if you use a fast charger often, see how long it takes to do a proper home charge after using a fast charger for a few cycles and compare it with how long it takes to do a proper home charge without using the fast charger.

    #15906

    mcphee7
    Participant

    When you’re in the car waiting for it, it takes a long long time! Battery conditioning as I understand it, so I want that 1%


    ??D
    Participant

    If you added temperature as an extra variable an easy short cut in the spreadsheet would be to reduce battery capacity by a specific percent for every degree the temperature is less than say 8 degrees.

    I don’t think there’s great value in adding anything that is a fairly constant adjustment; since the goal of the chart is not t give you an accurate total time; but rather to show proportionally how speeds compare. I think the difference made by temperature would be mostly uniform (it would reduce mpkwh, but also probably increase charge time, so the different is likely the same to all speeds).

    Anything that will result in shorter (or longer) times, but still with the same proportions doesn’t change the answer (which is what speeds you’re best to drive at to minimise travel time).

Viewing 10 results - 1,511 through 1,520 (of 2,711 total)

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